Thirty years ago Claudio Magris travelled the Danube’s winding trail from Hungary, musing on the philosophies of the area. Rapidly approaching my own 30th year, it was my turn.
The bus lurched into Sofia amidst a storm that might rival armageddon. The first taste of Bulgaria, and hopefully not an omen of things to come. After weaving in and out of the scorching heat of a Greek spring, we headed north through tiny villages. Worn stone cottages with trellises draped in vines dotted across […]